I learnt an important lesson from Cambodian chef Susie Jones about adapting recipes according to what you have in your fridge. Susie taught me how to make Vietnamese and Thai salads when I was writing our book on Salads From Around the World link to book. She explained rather than hunt down a rare Thai fruit or vegetable she would think what it brought to the dish. She used shavings of raw swede for crunch, cherries for sweetness and a lime for sourness. None of them were in the original recipe but they did the same job.

In this recipe I’ve given suggestions for the sweet element; beetroot, carrot or pomegranate seeds. They balance against the bitter flavours of radicchio, chicory or radish but do make your own swaps accordingly. Do add the leaves of the celery; they are often overlooked but have so much flavour.

The recipe is vegan so it should be good for everyone if you can eat nuts. To bump up the protein add in a couple of boiled eggs, cooked chicken or tofu.